FollowMyBuild | ET Hitch Install

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Caption:

Another view of the moved levelling valve. You can see where the lower corner of the valve mount plate had to be cutoff for clearing the watts-link mount cast into the differential. Be sure to cycle the rear suspension through its entire range to ensure there are no interferences with the relocated levelling valve.

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Hitch arrives. Unloaded from freight truck using engine hoist. Worked, but dicy!

Cross brace must be removed, which requires cutting off the huck bolts. Used an air grinder with a cutoff disk. Noisy but not difficult.

This is what it needs to look like. At this point, the truck cannot be driven until the hitch is installed. So make sure it's parked where you want it for awhile.

First step is to move the levelling valve back 3-4 inches. I turned the existing mount around and drilled new mounting holes to set proper height. Then made a mounting plate for the valve that is spaced from the existing mount to achieve proper setback.

You can see the flipped original mount and the original mounting holes. Also note the plastic 45-degree air fittings have been replaced with brass 90-degree fittings. Provides more clearance between the air bag fittings and the hitch mount and more clearance between the valve body fitting and the new offset spacers.

Another view of the moved levelling valve. You can see where the lower corner of the valve mount plate had to be cutoff for clearing the watts-link mount cast into the differential. Be sure to cycle the rear suspension through its entire range to ensure there are no interferences with the relocated levelling valve.

Best way I found to move the hitch is using a 1000 lb. lift table. Makes all the on/off, up/down and back and forth you will do tolerable.

Pic of the completed mounts. Cut out is for airbag valve clearance. I realize these mounts are massively over designed. But I'm not building an airplane here and I prefer the extra mass. Static factor of safety on the bolts is in excess of 8. Dynamic factor of safety is in excess of 5. I'm comfortable with those numbers. And the mounts themselves will not appreciably deflect under any load I can throw at it.

Another view of the mounts showing the bolt holes. The three 5/8" lower holes on each end pair up with huck bolt holes that were already in the frame. I considered those freebies. The lone 5/8" holes at the extreme ends are just for holding the two pieces of angle in registration while welding. All main mounting holes are 3/4" bolts.

Fully installed. Still have to reattach the tail light plate, mount the hitch camera, wire the Jackalopee brake/tail light box, and connect the air line. I'm using the air-slide circuit on the truck to supply the hitch air bags, because it is the only readily accessible 1/4" line. Plus, I can turn the air supply on and off if needed using the slide switch on the dash. Note the 1/4" gap between the bottom of the mounts and the frame. Don't rest the hitch mounts on the frame.

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